PhantseIsiqingatha sempahla yehlabathi senziwe ngepolyester kunye noqikelelo lweGreenpeace esi sixa-mali esiphantse sibe kabini ngowama-2030. Ngoba? Umkhwa wokubaleka ukuba sesinye sezizathu eziphambili emva kwayo: inani elandayo labathengi lijonge i-stretchier, iimpahla ezixhathisayo. Ingxaki kukuba, i-polyester ayilona khetho oluzinzileyo lwe-textile, njengoko lwenziwe kwi-polyethylene terephthalate (PET), uhlobo oluqhelekileyo lweplastiki emhlabeni. Ngamafutshane, uninzi lweempahla zethu ziphuma kwi-oyile ekrwada, ngelixa i-Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) ihlaba ikhwelo lokuba kuthathwe amanyathelo aqatha ukugcina ubushushu behlabathi bube kubuninzi be-1.5 °C ngaphezu kwamanqanaba angaphambi kwamashishini.

Kwiminyaka emithathu edlulileyo, umbutho ongenzi ngeniso we-Textile Exchange wacela umngeni ngaphezu kwe-50 yeenkampani ezilukiweyo, iimpahla kunye neentengiso (kubandakanywa izigebenga ezifana ne-Adidas, i-H&M, i-Gap kunye ne-Ikea) ukwandisa ukusebenzisa kwabo i-polyester ehlaziyiweyo ngama-25 ekhulwini ngo-2020. Isebenzile: kwinyanga ephelileyo , umbutho ukhuphe isiteyitimenti sokubhiyozela ukuba abatyikityi abazange bahlangabezane nenjongo kwiminyaka emibini ngaphambi komhla wokugqibela, ngokwenene baye badlula ngokunyusa ukusetyenziswa kwepolyester ehlaziyiweyo ngama-36 ekhulwini. Ukongeza, iinkampani ezilishumi elinesibini ezingaphezulu zithembise ukujoyina umngeni kulo nyaka. Umbutho uqikelela ukuba i-20 yepesenti yayo yonke i-polyester iya kuphinda isetyenziswe ngo-2030.

I-polyester esetyenzisiweyo, ekwaziwa ngokuba yi-rPET, ifunyanwa ngokunyibilikisa iplastiki esele ikhona kwaye iphinde ijikelezwe kwi-polyester fiber entsha. Ngelixa ingqwalasela enkulu inikwa i-rPET eyenziwe kwiibhotile zeplastiki kunye nezikhongozeli ezilahlwa ngabathengi, ngokwenene i-polyethylene terephthalate inokuphinda isetyenziswe ukusuka kwi-post-industrial kunye ne-post-consumer input materials. Kodwa, ukwenza nje umzekelo, iibhotile ezintlanu zesoda zivelisa ifayibha eyaneleyo kwisikipa esinye esikhulu esongezelelweyo.

Nangonaiplastiki yokuphinda isetyenziswekuvakala njengombono olungileyo ongenakuphikiswa, umbhiyozo we-rPET ukude ekubeni ube yimvisiswano kuluntu lwefashoni oluzinzileyo. IFashionUnited iqokelele iingxoxo eziphambili kumacala omabini.

Ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo: izinto ezilungileyo

1. Ukugcina iiplastiki zingayi kwindawo yokulahla inkunkuma kunye nolwandle-Ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo inika ubomi besibini kwizinto ezingaboliyo kwaye ngenye indlela ziya kuphelela kwindawo yokulahla inkunkuma okanye elwandle. Ngokwe-NGO Ocean Conservancy, izigidi ezisi-8 zeetoni zeemetric zeplastiki zingena elwandle minyaka le, ngaphezulu kweetoni eziqikelelwa kwi-150 lezigidi zeemetric ezijikelezayo ngoku kwimo engqongileyo yaselwandle. Ukuba sigcina esi santya, ngo-2050 kuya kubakho iplastiki eninzi elwandle kuneentlanzi. Iplastiki ifunyenwe kwiipesenti ezingama-60 kuzo zonke iintaka zaselwandle kunye neepesenti ezili-100 zazo zonke iintlobo zeefudo zaselwandle, kuba ziphosa iplastiki ngokutya.

Ngokuphathelele indawo yokulahla inkunkuma, i-United States Environmental Protection Agency yanikela ingxelo yokuba iindawo zokulahla inkunkuma zelizwe zafumana iitoni ezizizigidi ezingama-26 zeplastiki ngo-2015 kuphela. I-EU iqikelela isixa esifanayo esiya kuveliswa ngonyaka ngamalungu ayo. Iimpahla ngokungathandabuzekiyo ziyinxalenye enkulu yengxaki: e-UK, ingxelo yeNkqubo yokuSebenza kweNkunkuma kunye neZibonelelo (i-WRAP) iqikelela ukuba malunga ne-140 yezigidi zeeponti zeempahla zexabiso ziphelela kwiindawo zokulahla inkunkuma ngonyaka. "Ukuthatha inkunkuma yeplastiki kwaye uyijike ibe yinto eluncedo kubaluleke kakhulu ebantwini nakwindawo esihlala kuyo," utshilo uKarla Magruder, iLungu leBhodi yeTextile Exchange, kwi-imeyile eya kwiFashionUnited.

2. I-rPET ilungile njenge-polyester enyulu, kodwa ithatha izixhobo ezincinci ukwenza - I-polyester esetyenzisiweyo iphantse ifane ne-polyester enyulu ngokomgangatho, kodwa ukuveliswa kwayo kufuna i-59 yepesenti yamandla angaphantsi xa kuthelekiswa ne-polyester enyulu, ngokutsho kophando luka-2017. yiSwiss Federal Office for Environment. I-WRAP iqikelela imveliso ye-rPET yokunciphisa ukukhutshwa kwe-CO2 ngama-32 ekhulwini xa kuthelekiswa ne-polyester eqhelekileyo. "Ukuba ujonga kuvavanyo lomjikelo wobomi, amanqaku e-rPET angcono kakhulu kune-PET enyulu," wongeza uMagruder.

Ukongeza, i-polyester esetyenzisiweyo inokuba negalelo ekunciphiseni ukutsalwa kwe-oyile ekrwada kunye negesi yendalo evela eMhlabeni ukwenza iplastiki eninzi. "Ukusebenzisa ipolyester esetyenzisiweyo kunciphisa ukuxhomekeka kwethu kwipetroleum njengomthombo wezinto ezingasetyenziswanga," itsho iwebhusayithi yophawu lwangaphandle iPatagonia, eyaziwa kakhulu ngokwenza uboya obuphuma kwiibhotile zesoda esele zisetyenzisiwe, inkunkuma engasebenziyo kunye nempahla egugileyo. “Ithintela ukulahlwayo, ngaloo ndlela yandisa ubomi betiphu kwaye inciphisa ukukhutshwa kwetyhefu okuphuma kwizitshisi. Ikwanceda ekukhuthazeni imijelo emitsha yokurisayikilisha kwimpahla yepolyester engasanxitywayo,” yongeza ileyibhile.

"Ngenxa yokuba i-polyester ithatha malunga neepesenti ezingama-60 zemveliso yehlabathi ye-PET - malunga nokuphindwe kabini oko kusetyenziswe kwiibhotile zeplastiki - ukuphuhlisa ikhonkco lokubonelela nge-polyester fiber inamandla okuba nefuthe elikhulu kwiimfuno zamandla kunye nezixhobo zokusebenza," isho i-American apparel brand. INau, ekwaziwa ngokubeka phambili iinketho zelaphu ezizinzileyo.

I-polyester esetyenzisiweyo: i-cons

1. Ukurisayikilisha kunemida yako -Izambatho ezininzi azenziwanga kwi-polyester yodwa, kodwa kunoko kumxube we-polyester kunye nezinye izinto. Xa kunjalo, kunzima ngakumbi, ukuba akunakwenzeka, ukuphinda usebenziseke kwakhona. "Kwezinye iimeko, kunokwenzeka ngokobugcisa, umzekelo ukuxuba i-polyester kunye nomqhaphu. Kodwa isekwinqanaba lokulinga. Umceli mngeni kukufumana iinkqubo ezinokunyuswa ngokufanelekileyo kwaye asikabikho,” utshilo uMagruder kwiSuston Magazine ngo-2017. Ezinye iilaminations kunye nokugqitywa okufakwe kwilaphu nako kunokubenza bangasebenzi.

Kwaneempahla eziyi-100 ekhulwini le-polyester azikwazi ukuphinda zisetyenziswe ngonaphakade. Zimbini iindlela zokusebenzisa kwakhona i-PET: ngoomatshini kunye neekhemikhali. “Ukurisayikilishwa koomatshini kuthatha ibhotile yeplastiki, iyihlambe, iyikrazule emva koko iyijike ibe yitshiphu yepolyester, ethi emva koko idlule kwinkqubo yokwenziwa kwefiber yesintu. Ukurisayiklishwa kweekhemikhali kuthatha inkunkuma yeplastiki kwaye iyibuyisele kwiimonomers zayo zakuqala, ezingaqondakaliyo kwipolyester enyulu. Ezo zinokubuyela kwinkqubo yokwenziwa kwepolyester eqhelekileyo,” ucacise watsho uMagruder kwiFashionUnited. Uninzi lwe-rPET lufunyanwa ngokwenziwa ngokutsha ngoomatshini, njengoko iyeyona inexabiso eliphantsi kwezi nkqubo zimbini kwaye ayifuni khemikhali ngaphandle kwezicoci ezifunekayo ukucoca imathiriyeli yokufaka. Noko ke, “ngale nkqubo, umcu unokuphelelwa ngamandla kuze ngaloo ndlela udityaniswe ne<em>virgin fiber,” iphawula oko iSwiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Uninzi lwabantu lukholelwa ukuba iiplastiki zinokuphinda zisetyenziswe ngokungenasiphelo, kodwa ixesha ngalinye iplastiki ifudunyezwa iyancipha, ngoko ke ukuphindaphinda okulandelayo kwepolymer kuyancipha kwaye iplastiki kufuneka isetyenziswe ukwenza iimveliso ezikumgangatho ophantsi," kusho uPatty Grossman, umseki we-polymer. Oodade ababini Ecotextiles, kwi-imeyile eya kwiFashionUnited. I-Textile Exchange, nangona kunjalo, ithi kwiwebhusayithi yayo i-rPET inokuphinda isetyenziswe iminyaka emininzi: "Iingubo ezivela kwi-polyester esetyenzisiweyo zijolise ekuhlaziyweni ngokuqhubekayo ngaphandle kokuthotywa komgangatho", wabhala umbutho, wongeza ukuba umjikelo wengubo yepolyester unamandla okuba " inkqubo yelophu evaliweyo” ngenye imini.

Abo balandela ingcamango kaGrossman bathi ihlabathi lifanele livelise kwaye lisebenzise iplastiki encinane ngokubanzi. Ukuba uluntu lukholelwa ukuba yonke into abayilahlayo inokuphinda isetyenziswe, mhlawumbi abayi kuyibona ingxaki ekuqhubekeni nokutya izinto zeplastiki ezilahlwayo. Ngelishwa, kuphela inxalenye encinci yeplastiki esiyisebenzisayo ephinda isetyenziswe. EUnited States, iipesenti ezisi-9 zazo zonke iiplastiki zaphinda zasetyenziswa kwakhona ngo-2015, ngokwe-Arhente yoKhuseleko lweNdalo yase-US.

Abo babiza umbono onganeno wokubhiyozelwa kwe-rPET bakhusela ukuba iimveliso zefashoni kunye nabathengi kufuneka bakhuthazwe ukuba bathande iintsinga zendalo kangangoko kunokwenzeka. Emva kwayo yonke loo nto, nangona i-rPET ithatha i-59 yeepesenti yamandla amancinci ukuvelisa kune-polyester enyulu, isafuna amandla angaphezu kwe-hemp, uboya kunye ne-organic kunye nekotoni eqhelekileyo, ngokwengxelo ye-2010 evela kwi-Stockholm Environment Institute.